V.H.POTTY
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While talking about food inflation, no one expects the poor coconut oil to fetch prizes once considered the privilege of its more illustrious cousins like Olive oil. People are known to spend fortunes to lay their hands on virgin olive oil which has a reputation, rightly or wrongly, as a wonder fat with umpteen number of health benefits. Recent sudden interest in coconut oil, once condemned and vilified, especially by the Soy oil and Canola lobbyists for its high saturated fatty acid content, defies logic and if this interest continues, the people in Kerala and South Karnataka for whom coconut oil is the staple fat, may be starved of this commodity due uncontrolled price escalation in the global market. Here is a take on that funny situation.
"So given all this greasy baggage, what was coconut oil doing in a health food store? In fact, it has recently become the darling of the natural-foods world. Annual sales growth at Whole Foods "has been in the high double digits for the last five years," said Errol Schweizer, the chain's global senior grocery coordinator. Two groups have helped give coconut oil its sparkly new makeover. One is made up of scientists, many of whom are backtracking on the worst accusations against coconut oil. And the other is the growing number of vegans, who rely on it as a sweet vegetable fat that is solid at room temperature and can create flaky pie crusts, crumbly scones and fluffy cupcake icings, all without butter. My curiosity stirred, I brought some home and experimented. I quickly learned that virgin coconut oil has a haunting, nutty, vanilla flavor. It's even milder and richer tasting than butter, sweeter and lighter textured than lard, and without any of the bitterness you sometimes get in olive oil. Its natural sweetness shines in baked goods and sautés, and is particularly wonderful paired with bitter greens, which soften and mellow under the oil's gentle touch. And the saturated fat in coconut oil makes it a good choice in pastries, whether you avoid animal fats or simply want to pack a little more coconut flavor into that coconut cream pie".
What is amazing is the total turn around by the same nutritionists who swore to the dangers of consuming coconut oil because of its rich saturated fat content. To day the very same scientists are singing a different tune extolling the virtues of this oil as a wonder food adjunct. In spite of three decades of incessant campaign by those dealing with western origin oils like soy, canola etc, coconut oil oil has stood the test of time and to day it has emerged as a truly healthy oil for both edible as well as external use. The presence of the medium chain fatty acid Lauric acid confers on it many special health benefits which are recognized to day. It is known that it is easily digestible as it is incorporated in many infant food formulas and its typical melting characteristics make it a darling of the food industry, once its anti-healthy tag is removed. While this is a good news for coconut farmers in India, Sri Lanka and Philippines, one has to sympathize with the fate of the poor consumers who may have to shell out more for their precious staple oil.Olive oil is considered one of the most nutritious fats and as such it is valued very high in the minds of the consumers every where. The cardio-protective effect attributed to Olive oil was considered to be due to the rich content of oleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid though the polyphenolic antioxidants such as tyrosol and hydroxy tyrosol and tocopherol, also present in the oil play an important role. Besides Olive oil contains 11% polyunsaturated fats, both with Omega-3 as well as Omega-6 acids. More than 60% of the global production of olive oil, about 3 million tons annually, is accounted for by two countries, Spain and Italy. Since Olive is grown extensively in the Mediterranean region, it is often assumed that the good health with relatively less incidence of cardiac disease amongst the population there could be due to high consumption of the oil from this fruit. Olive oil is versatile fat used for cooking, in cosmetics and pharmaceutical products and for making high quality soaps. As per the international Olive Oil Council (IOC), Extra Virgin Olive oil shall contain less than 0.7% free fatty acids while Virgin Oil can have up to 2% acid. How ever what is interesting is that consumers are reported to have a preference to rancid oils, probably due to price considerations. It is recognized that such preference for products considered inferior is acquired over a period of time and the reported ready acceptance of rancid Olive oil could be because of this factor. Considering that olive oil is associated with better cardiac health, consumers must be "tolerating" rancidity to some extent.
"The new study captured the preferences of 110 Northern California olive oil consumers and the reasons for those preferences. The study participants were asked to taste and rate 22 commercial olive oils that were labeled as extra virgin. Half of the oils in the study were imported, and half were from California. The study found that 74 percent of the consumers did not like what the expert tasters identified as high-quality oil — those that were bitter, pungent and free of defects. Bitterness and pungency are two of the positive sensory attributes of high-quality olive oil, as identified by International Olive Council standards. The researchers note that, in the case of other food products such as specialty beers and coffees, bitterness is an attribute that consumers initially dislike but learn to accept. They suggest that consumers might find bitterness and pungency more acceptable when using olive oil with food and in cooking and by knowing that healthy antioxidants in the oil are the cause of bitterness and pungency. Consumers participating in the study did like those olive oils that had the third desirable attribute of extra virgin olive oil, which is fruitiness. In order for an olive oil to be considered extra virgin, it must have some fruitiness and zero defects such as rancidity. Surprisingly, 44 percent of the consumers liked the olive oils that had rancid flavors, even though this is an undesirable quality that would disqualify an olive oil from being considered extra virgin. The study also found that 74 percent of the study participants said they use olive oil for its health benefits; other reasons included for use in a recipe, bread-dipping in restaurants, family tradition and flavor".
Olive oil is reported to be extensively adulterated and considering the high prices commanded by this product it is no wonder that fraudsters see lot of money in adulterating this oil. Adding chlorophyll to simulate pure pressed Olive oil and diluting with oils like soy oil and many undesirable practices indulged in by the trade have brought a bad name to this wonder oil and IOC with 23 member countries controlling 95% of production, is striving hard to protect its reputation through cooperative efforts to control the market. A larger question is whether Olive oil really deserves the euphoria that has made it the costliest cooking oil consumer has known. There are many plant oils with similar chemical composition which also may be as effective if not more, that can match Olive oil but tradition, history and high profile promotion were able to put it on a high pedestal.
Olive oil has an exalted status amongst edible oils because of the presence of high proportion of unsaturated fatty aids which are known to be have a protecting role for human health. Historically tree seed oils were manufactured using crushers of different design, the earliest being the pestle and mortar system. Since seed crushing, even if heavy duty hydraulic presses are used, does not remove oil completely, leaving a residual oil varying from 4% to 20% in the pressed cake. These pressed residues form the feedstock for the solvent extraction industry which recovers the remaining oil using mostly hexane. What is available in the market are refined oil freed from unsaponifiable matters, colors and free fatty acids. Many believe that cold pressing of oil seeds yield superior value products in terms of flavor and nutritive value, though presence of lipolytic and oxidative enzymes can pose problems for long term storage. When it comes to Olive oil the so called extra-virgin version which is basically cold pressed product fetches premium price in the market. This consumer sentiment is exploited by a section of the industry to palm of products which do not pass the test for genuineness. This market problem is being addressed by food standards agencies through stricter compliance action.
"The purity issue also remains a serious concern for some consumers. In the past, some state agencies have uncovered oils labeled 100% extra-virgin olive oil that were blended with cheaper canola or nut oils, which can be a serious health threat to people with allergies. (No such mixing was found in the UC Davis report.) Money is also at stake, because extra-virgin oil can be marketed as a premium retail product. A typical 750-milliliter bottle of olive oil can sell for $8 or less, while the same size bottle of high-end extra virgin oil can go for $12 or more. The report underscores problems in an industry that pulls in more than $700 million a year in U.S. retail sales. Industry officials generally agree that the "extra-virgin" designation is proper for oil that is cold-processed, has low acidity and has higher levels of healthful fats and antioxidants".
While marginal variations in the quality can be condoned to some extent considering that olive oil is sourced from different sources, deliberate tinkering with its natural composition is a serious economic fraud deserving severe punishment to the perpetrators of such heinous act. The issue whether extra-virgin olive oil is really more nutritious and healthy may be controversial but any product offered to meet consumer expectations, must be true to the label claims made by the manufacturer.